Soul

Forgot about sole: try it again.

Fresh sole fillets should not fall apart when you lift them from the package.

About 3 T flour, lots of salt and pepper, mix in a shallow dish. Then—and only then—heat a knob of butter and a dollop of olive oil in a good sauté pan. Dredge each side of each fillet lightly and brush off excess, and once the flurry of the butter has subsided, fry on each side for a little longer than you think, until the flour goes golden. Once cooked, remove them to a serving dish and fry the next few fillets. Don't over-crowd the frying pan or the fish will steam instead of frying. Wipe out the pan with paper towel in between batches if you don't like that browned-butter taste.

When the fillets are all done, sprinkle them with a squirt of lemon and serve them quickly. We made potato boats beforehand (the innards of the potato mashed with light cream cheese, a beaten egg and a little green onion, then put back under a low grill to get toasted) and threw together a salad while the sole was cooking.

It was delightful.