chowdah

Nothing but fish will do for the last few days. Baked fish at Bonnie's house, halibut chowder last night. Tuna on rosemary-pecan crackers for lunch. Fish and chips for the children tonight. The fish chowder is very good in a changeable climate, quick to make, and tastes fresh but soothing on a suddenly snowy evening.

Sauté one minced white onion, with a finely-minced stalk of celery and a little of the greens, in about 2 T oil (I use half olive oil, half butter, because you'll see a bit of it later on the surface). As soon as they're sautéeing away, roughly chop 2 or 3 unpeeled yukon gold potatoes and add, stirring them around for a while. Because it's been a long winter, a little fine-dice red pepper won't do it any harm.

Stir all these in the soup pot until everything's gently glowing, then pour in half a litre of organic chicken broth from a tetra pack and half a bunch of parsley, tied with a little linen string, and let it all simmer for ten minutes. Take out the old parsley, stir in three or four halibut or haddock fillets, chopped about the same size as the potatoes (and frozen is delightful in this case), about half a cup of cream, and half of the remaining parsley, finely minced. When the fish looks done, it's done. Don't let the potatoes get too mushy—they and the fish should be about the same consistency. You might like to add more cream, or use whole milk—don't try this with skim though. No no no.

crummy

In England we made key lime pie, and it turns out to be very easy for a travelling dish. And reminded us, too, of sweetened condensed milk. I seem to remember that there was often an open can in our Nova Scotia fridge, with a teaspoon stuck in it. Maybe it's sovereign for a rainy climate.

Key Lime Pie

In a plastic bag, bash 20 graham crackers, or about as many digestive cookies as you think looks right, into crumbs. Stir in 1/3 or maybe 1/2 cup melted butter, whatever the crumbs demand, and 2 T white sugar and mix well, then press into the bottom and a little up the sides of a 9" springform pan. Bake for 10 minutes at 350º

While the crust bakes, mix 4 egg yoks, 1 can of sweetened condensed milk (just called condensed milk in Britain) and the juice of three limes. You can use as much zest as you like, but just stir this together, don't let it get bubbly. It will thicken a little. Pour the filling into the crust hot from the oven and put it back in for 12 minutes, just long enough to set the eggs. Stick in the fridge for at least 8 hours, and there you are. Not much mess in somebody else's kitchen, either.

These are those old bars made with Bordens. The ingredients list is more of a guideline than a rule—use whatever you happen to have on hand for toppings.

Marvel Bars

3 cups finely ground graham crackers or chocolate wafers, or a combination
1/4 cup sugar
3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) butter, melted
1 cup pecan pieces
1 cup semisweet chocolate chips or chunks
1 can (14 ounces) sweetened condensed milk
1 1/2 cups sweetened shredded coconut

Preheat oven to 375°. Lightly splash a 15-by-10-inch rimmed baking sheet evenly with water, then line with parchment paper. Do not neglect this step or you will be sorry. In a large bowl, stir together cookie crumbs, sugar, and butter until combined. Evenly press onto bottom and up sides of prepared baking sheet. Bake about 10 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack; cool, about 20 minutes. Sprinkle cooled crust evenly with pecans and chocolate. Pour condensed milk over the top, spreading to cover completely (do not let it drip over the edges). Sprinkle with coconut. Bake until coconut is toasted, 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer to rack; cool completely. Trim edges, if desired, and cut into equal-size bars.

But only eat one. Your teeth will ache.

Solace

Sometimes (perhaps after a hard week around grant app time) you just need chocolate sauce. This makes a thick, glossy sauce, with very deep flavour. Like a sundae from the Harris Quick & Tasty, only not the actual sundae, the one in a dream ten years later.

HOT FUDGE SAUCE

2/3 cup whipping cream
1/2 cup light corn syrup
1/3 cup packed dark brown sugar
1/3 cup unsweetened Dutch-process cocoa powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
6 oz fine-quality bittersweet chocolate (not unsweetened), finely chopped
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 teaspoon vanilla

Bring cream, corn syrup, sugar, cocoa, salt, and half of chocolate to a boil in a 1 to 1 1/2-quart heavy saucepan over moderate heat, stirring, until chocolate is melted. Reduce heat and cook at a low boil, stirring occasionally, 5 minutes, then remove from heat. Add butter, vanilla, and remaining chocolate and stir until smooth. Cool sauce to warm before serving.
Makes about 2 cups.

You can make it a week ahead, cool completely, then chill in an airtight container or jar. Reheat before using.

(But don't do what we did: at Ian and Kanchan's house I handed the jar to their daughter Nisha and Rachel, saying 'pop this into a bowl of warm water to heat it up,' and then by some graceful accident happened to wander into the kitchen as they were pouring the thick chocolate sauce out of the jar into the warm water. It worked out all right, we just poured the water off into the sink and the sauce was hardly any thinner, and still gorgeous.)