Boueueuf Bourguinnongne

(Okay, Boeuf Bourguignon: adapted from eighteen other ways, but this is the way I like it best.)

1/2 lb good bacon, small dice or lardons 

1 large onion, small dice

2 cloves garlic, crushed

2 carrots, chopped fine

1.5 kg blade steak (lean stewing beef), cut in 2" cubes

flour

2 cups dry red wine, a beaujolais or Cotes du Rhone 

  (buy two bottles so you can serve the same wine with dinner)

2 cups beef stock (your own if you are crazy, or made from Better Than Bouillon paste in a jar)

1 large can crushed tomatoes 

2 long strips orange peel (just the orange part, no white)

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 bunch thyme sprig, tied up, + extra sprig

12-24 small/pearl onions

18 mushrooms, in thick slices

Set aside enough time for all this, the day before the party. Any rush will lead to burned bits and the tender beauty of the browning will be lost.  

In a Le Creuset or cast iron dutch oven, cook bacon, onion, garlic and carrots slowly till onion is caramelized. With a slotted spoon, remove all these to a dish and add 2 T olive oil to the pot. Turn heat to medium high. 

Dry the beef cubes, shake with flour in a brown paper bag, and add to pot a few at a time; cook on high to seal. Put each batch aside and do the next. Go slowly! Brown properly! When all the meat is browned, pour in the wine to deglaze the pan, scraping up the dark goodness. Put the beef cubes back and stir to thicken. Add 1 cup beef stock, bacon, tomatoes and onions, orange zest, garlic and thyme bundle. Bring to a simmer on top of the stove. Put the lid on the Le Creuset and pop it in the oven for 3 hours at 300F. Every hour, check: stir and keep topping up with the remaining cup of stock so that the beef remains in liquid.

You can do this the day before you serve—if so, let the bourguignon cool to room temp with the lid off, then cover and refrigerate over night. Remove visible fat from the surface before heating the dish in the oven slowly, as you do the onions and mushrooms.

So meanwhile, or the next day, do the mushrooms and onions: heat a knob of butter and a glog of olive oil in a sauté pan (one with a lid) until foaming. Add the 24 pearl onions and sauté over medium heat for ten minutes or so to brown, rolling from time to time. Add 1/2 C beef stock, a sprig of thyme, and a bay leaf; cover and simmer very slowly for about forty-five minutes, until onions are tender but still hold their shape. Remove bay leaf and thyme, set onions aside. Wipe out the sauté pan and heat another knob of butter, and when foam subsides, sauté the mushrooms.

Back to the beef: when the meat is tender, tidy up the casserole and skim the surface fat. If liquid is too thin, pour the whole shebang into a sieve set over a large saucepan/saucier and return the beef etc. to the casserole. Skim the fat from the sauce in the saucepan, stirring and skimming more fat as it rises. Reduce till the liquid is thick enough to coat a spoon lightly. If too thick, add a few T stock. Taste for seasoning, it may need salt. Add the cooked onions and mushrooms and stir to coat them in the lovely sauce.

Serve with lots of yukon gold mashed potatoes and the same red wine you used in cooking. 

Preserved Lemons with Honey a la Greg Malouf

Enough preserved lemons. Almost enough.

Making preserved lemons sounds like a lot of bother but it’s not: it takes about ten minutes to put together a jar or two. Like crème fraîche, they are much cheaper to make than to buy; unlike crème fraîche, which is always perfection, they are much much better home-made. And organic, of course.

I’ve adapted this recipe from Greg Malouf and many others—Greg’s great advantage is that freezing and thawing the lemons before you begin cuts off about two months of ageing time, so you can eat them sooner.

I tried a batch in a pretty non-mason jar, which did not make a proper seal, and to my sorrow they went mouldy. So bite the bullet and get a four-pack of ½ litre mason jars and a few lids, for under $10, and you’ll be all set. Sterilize the jar before you pack it, and keep them refrigerated once you open them. They won’t last nearly long enough to spoil. If halving, use the same amount of the spices.

Use only the rind of preserved lemons, discard the flesh. Add finely chopped skin of ½ a preserved lemon and a minced clove of garlic (or a small shallot) to 4 T butter and smoosh it under the skin of a chicken before roasting (that is AMAZING), or add to mayonnaise, hollandaise or guacamole—glorious in risotto. I even put it in mashed potatoes.

2-3 pounds organic lemons, since the peel is the whole point
   (enough to fill two ½ litre jars plus 4-5 more to squeeze for juice)
1–1 ½ cups salt
1 T coriander seeds, lightly crushed
2 cinnamon sticks
2 lemon leaves or bay leaves
¼ cup honey
1 cup lemon juice
3 cups warm water

Wash and dry the lemons. Cut lengthways into quarters from the point of the lemon to 1/4” from the stem, leaving joined at the base. Put in a plastic bag in the freezer for 24 hours. Remove from freezer and allow to defrost. 


Stuff the centre of each lemon with a heaped teaspoon of salt. Arrange neatly in a ½ litre jar, sprinkling each layer of lemons with more salt and crushed coriander seeds, using 1/2-3/4 cup salt in each jar. Place the sticks of cinnamon down the sides of the jar, along with the lemon leaves or bay leaves. Stir the honey and lemon juice with the warm water until the honey dissolves. Pour the mixture into the jar, covering the lemons entirely (add more lemon juice if it is not enough to cover them), and screw the lid on tight. 

Many sources say you can just leave it in a cool dark place for a month. But I advise processing the lemons. Use a fresh mason lid. Place a piece of cardboard on the bottom of a large pot and sit the jar on top. This stops it from vibrating. Add warm water to cover the jar completely and slowly bring it to the boil. Boil for 6 minutes, then remove from heat. Gently and carefully lift the jar from the pot.
Store in a cool, dark place for a month before opening. Once opened, keep refrigerated. If the lemons are not frozen first, the maturation process will take at least 3 months. As I open one jar, I make another, because I use them up in about a month. And I usually make two at a time, to have one to give away.
 

Using preserved lemons

To use: Remove a piece of lemon from the liquid (some people say to use a wooden spoon to pull one out, I suppose to avoid some taint to the brine?) and rinse. Scrape out and discard the pulp (you can press the pulp through a sieve to obtain the juice for extra flavour). Slice the lemon peel into thin strips or small dice.

The peel acts like salt, because it’s so saturated, so be careful when salting a dish that you’re adding the peel to. Fabulous for scenting/salting rice or couscous, or baked chicken dishes. You can bake chicken or fish in a foil packet with a few strips of peel mmmm. I added some to my tuna sandwich today. It’s a subtle surprise every now and then. Extremely good in mashed potatoes.

We most often use preserved lemon in risotto (nice with asparagus or salmon added with the last ladle of liquid) or in a quinoa salad with orange peppers, cucumbers, and white onion. Put the diced preserved lemon peel in with the quinoa as it cooks, to let the grain soak in the salt and the very mysterious ancient lemon flavour.


Crab or shrimp spaghettini with preserved lemons

1/2 pound spaghettini or capelli di angeli
1/2 cup chopped red onion
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 to 2 teaspoons sambal oelek
1/2 pound shelled cooked crabmeat, cut into 1-inch pieces, or peeled raw shrimp
1/4 preserved lemon rind, rinsed and finely chopped
1/3 cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
2 tablespoons salted butter

Cook spaghettini al dente. Meanwhile, sauté onion in oil in a large heavy skillet over medium heat, stirring, until softened. Stir in sambal oelek and cook 1 minute, then add crabmeat. Reduce heat to low and cook, stirring frequently, just until crabmeat is heated through (or shrimp are pink). Stir parsley, lemon and butter. Drain pasta, then add to skillet and toss to coat well.


Israeli Couscous with Preserved Lemon and Butternut squash

1 preserved lemon
1 1/2 pound butternut squash, peeled and seeded, and cut into 1/4-inch dice
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
1 3/4 cups Israeli couscous, about 1 pound (this is very good with quinoa too)
1 (3-inch) cinnamon stick
1 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1/2 cup pine nuts, toasted (chopped almonds are fine, or just leave out)
1/2 cup golden raisins
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Preheat oven to 475°F. Toss squash with 1 tablespoon oil and salt to taste (not much! those lemons are salty!) in a large shallow baking pan and spread in 1 layer. Roast 15 minutes, until squash is just tender, and transfer to a large bowl.
Cook couscous with the cinnamon stick in a large pot of boiling salted water for 10 minutes, until just tender.
Meanwhile, halve lemons and scoop out flesh, pressing through a sieve to extract juice for extra zing. Cut peel into 1/4-inch dice to measure ¼ cup (or more if you are addicted).
Sauté onion in 1 tablespoon oil in a heavy skillet over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until just beginning to turn golden. Add to squash. Stir in the lemon peel and juice, 2 T olive oil, parsley, nuts, raisins, and ground cinnamon and let sit. Drain the couscous and toss with onion/squash melange.

Shrimp on the Ken

It’s not quite hot enough yet, but I am dreaming of bbqed shrimp. Two very good ways, here, and a fresh coriander chutney that becomes a fresh cilantro chutney if you’re serving it with the chipotle version. And a little guacamole on the side is perfect.  


Chipotle Marinated Shrimp

1/2 cup olive oil
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
1 lime, juiced
2 tablespoons minced chipotle chiles in adobo
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
2 pounds large shrimp, peeled and deveined with tails attached

In a mixing bowl, mix together olive oil, cilantro, lime juice, chipotles, garlic, salt, and black pepper. Pour marinade into a large resealable plastic bag with shrimp. Seal, and marinate in the refrigerator for 2 hours or up to 24 hours. If you want to marinate longer, leave out the lime juice, adding it 2 hours before you’ll cook the shrimp. Preheat grill for medium-low heat. Thread shrimp onto skewers, piercing once near the tail and once near the head. (Or don’t bother with skewers, just grill them on a foil-lined cookie sheet under a high broiler for 2-3 minutes, or pan-fry them.)
 

Curry Marinated Shrimp

1/2 cup oil
1/2 cup chopped fresh coriander
2 tablespoons medium curry paste
1/2 t turmeric
3 cloves garlic, minced
1” ginger, grated
2 teaspoons celtic sea salt
1 teaspoon freshly-ground black pepper
2 pounds large shrimp, peeled and deveined with tails attached
juice of 2 lemons or limes

In a mixing bowl, mix together oil, cilantro, curry, garlic, salt, and black pepper. Pour marinade into a large resealable plastic bag with shrimp. Seal, and marinate in the refrigerator for up to 24 hours. 2 hours before you’ll cook the shrimp, add the lemon juice. Preheat grill for medium heat. Thread shrimp onto skewers, piercing once near the tail and once near the head. Grill over direct heat, about two minutes. (Or just throw them onto a foil-lined cookie sheet and broil them, for two to three minutes.)
 

Fresh Coriander Chutney

1 bunch fresh coriander leaves
2 limes, peel grated and juiced
1 jalapeño, halved and deseeded
1 clove garlic, peeled
1 T Greek yoghurt
1/2 t golden caster sugar
salt and freshly milled black pepper
 
Whirl all ingredients in a blender, adding a little water if you like it a bit thinner, and let sit for two hours to develop flavours.
 

Sara's ginger ice-cream

Looking at 123oleary's blog on writers' sheds today reminded me of what you should eat in them: her beautiful ginger ice cream. Reproduced here in her own words.

"It's hardly a recipe:  a pint of whipping cream, 2 eggs, some sugar (around 1/4 cup, I think) and a couple of big spoonfuls of ginger in syrup in the blender or processor.  Zoom like hell, put in a metal bowl and stuff in freezer.  Bugger off for six hours, buy things you shouldn't, come home and enjoy."

Follow to the letter, you will be happy and won't even need a shed.
(and here's the lovely Little Houses post...)
123oleary.blogspot.com/2011/05/little-houses.html?spref=tw

Chorizo-stuffed bacon-wrapped dates

Left these off the Tapas recipes, and they might be the best thing of all: a miracle occurs during the grilling to marry three strange bedfellows. Serve straight from the grill with romanesco sauce, below, or just by their mysteriously beautiful selves.

8 ounces fresh Spanish chorizo sausage,

     uncased and crumbled

1 tablespoon chopped Italian parsley

24 large Medjool dates

12 slices bacon, cut crosswise in half

2 tablespoons olive oil

Early in the day: Cook chorizo in heavy small skillet over medium heat until browned and cooked through, stirring frequently and breaking up lumps with spoon, about 5 minutes. Drain off fat; transfer sausage to small bowl. Add parsley; stir to combine. Cool. Working with one date at a time, cut slit along top of date. Gently pry open date and remove pit, leaving pocket. Stuff pocket with 1 scant tablespoon chorizo mixture. Wrap 1 bacon piece around each date, overlapping ends slightly; fasten ends with toothpick. Refrigerate till party.

Half hour before party: Heat oil in medium skillet over medium heat. Add dates, toothpick-side down, and cook without moving until bacon browns, about 5 minutes. Continue to cook until bacon is brown on all sides, turning dates occasionally, about 6 minutes longer. Transfer to paper towels to drain. EVEN BETTER: preheat bbq to 500º and grill on the top rack as if it was an oven. Drain on paper towels. Serve warm, with romanesco or tomato sauce or on their own.